The Funeral of New Orleans
I was only babbling about the vitality of the moving image, and of video gradually gaining more precedence in the fashion industry on Friday and I have unearthed another video gem. Nick Knight's SHOWstudio must be considered as pioneers in the field, their first dip into the toes of new media beginning way back in 2001 with 'Sleep'. Browsing the SHOWstudio archives I stumbled upon Aitor Throup’s 'The Funeral of New Orleans' from 2007.
I was devastated to miss out on Aitor's contribution to Topman’s Black Trouser Project back in August of last year (blame a last minute trip to Paris) and have since been intrigued, nay bordering on obsessed, by his work. A reaction to Hurricane Katrina which obliterated the rich musical heritage of New Orleans, Aitor took the traditional New Orleans funeral marching band as inspiration, producing a video narrative which depicts the tale of five musicians in the wake of devastation, struggling to protect themselves and their instruments. The collection - shirts and jackets, based upon traditional marching band uniform - are cut in the pose of the musician playing; three dimensional pieces which detach and function independently, which in turn become bags for each player's instrument.
Aitor's discourse on devastation and destruction results in utilitarian pieces which - though produced two years ago - resounds both sartorially (in line with this season's militaristic collections), realistically as a potent statement on life itself, and technologically in Aitor's manipulation of materials and choice of presentation.
Posted by Luke Raymond