Left: Jil Sander Right: 3.1 Philip Lim.
Left: Celine. Middle: Balenciaga. Right: Lanvin.
Image above - Left: Givenchy. Middle: Helmut Lang. Right: Givenchy.
Image below - Left: Alexander Wang. Middle: Calvin Klein. Right: Celine.
The pre-fall shows are increasingly becoming of greater importance as the idea of them as merely a continuity of SS11 and a prelude to AW11 is fading as they have forged their way into creating their own individual season, as they need not be after thoughts to the seasons which surround them.
For pre-Fall AW11 naturally certain shapes from SS11 carried through as seen at Jil Sander where the soft round cuts that veer between futurism and sportswear were present, as structures nodded in places very subtley to the floral demi-couture skirts and tops of SS11.
Looking to the colour palette days of richer natural colour lie ahead as browns, greens, of the wet outdoors and rusted orange hues were touched on at Phillip Lim, Celine, Alexander Wang and Jil Sander. As Celine created an almost patchwork jacket which reminded you in a way of a gathering items from the woods when younger for school projects and looking at their contrasting hues, as an element of nature is inherent to this slightly murky colour palette. While in places such as at Givenchy and Louis Vuittion the rich purples of berries were used to colour clothes.
Sportswear, was a key influence as illustrated in the 90’s colour panelling at Celine and the structure at Phillip Lim where sweatshirts were made ever more formal and welcomed touches of embellishment and then there was the refined athlethic construction at Alexander Wang
Segmentation a trend we Forecast this issue, is most evident at Alexander Wang in trousers, almost clinical approach to a sports designs. Givenchy utilized sheer to dabble yet remain uncommitted to this trend.
The minimalist sports concept and these murky yet rich colours as you explore the AW11 forest are what I will be taking from these collections.
Images courtesy of Style.com.
Posted by Susan Walsh