The Key Shows.
As our focus is swiftly shifting to Paris, the time has come to reflect on Milan and what we have seen over the last few days.
Prada, Jil Sander, Marni and Versus were for me the 'big four'. Each one left a distinguishing mark on the week and shaped the direction of the trends we have seen emerging.
Prada with it's bold 1920's silhouette and electric colour defined Milan Fashion Week. The power and energy omitted from the solid orange, green, blue and violets was intense. The subsequent detour to the jungle was intriguing. Prada led us on a trek where the prints were graphic and witty incorporating bananas, monkeys and the striped summer holiday kitch of the past. The shoes were both classic and ironic in places as brogues were befitted on a block wedged flip-flop esque heel. The piece de resistance though were the almost binocular sunglasses which I see driving the trend of futurism into eyewear.
Jil Sander pairing their signature minimalism with the concept of pared down couture infused with colour created a new minimalist sub catergory. Despite embracing elements of volume Raf still remained true to the Jil Sander ethos and made us re-examine how we define minimalist.
Marni's sportwear luxe took inspiration from the aquatics and saw models wear tops that openly referenced wet-suits and footwear of the water shoe variety. The use of perforated leather and mesh brought an interesting texture to the collection. Shapes were athletic while the palette was colourful yet restrained. Sunglasses were goggle-like and Prada hinted at futurism in the form of compound eyes.
Versus had some minor hints to sportswear also in the form of cycling-like shorts however for SS11 Versus lay somewhere between the schoolyard and the east. Versus mixed plaid, colour and saree draping. Colour was rich yet light in burgundy red, fulvous brown, titanium yellow, cerise pink and azure blue. Graphic striping, sublte floral prints and colour-blocking were just some of the ways colour was expressed. All elements of reference were reinterpreted in typical Versace fashion.
These four shows I suspect will be Milan's legacy to the emerging trends.
Images courtesy of Style.com.
Posted by Susan Walsh