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03.03.11
Martin Lamothe AW 11/12
Elena Martin, the designer behind Spanish brand Martin Lamothe, has a C.V as instructive as it is impressive. Since her graduation from CSM, she has trained at Vivienne Westwood & McQueen, was the Pitti Filati winner at Florence, and manages to teach Creative Direction in Universities across Spain, so to say I was intrigued at the very thought of receiving her lookbook is an understatement.
Her quirky approach to fashion veers on the conservative side, and her unlikely pairing of smart trousers and polos, appeals to my very British aesthetic. Managing to produce solid collections for both, the girls and the boys, the navy Victorian-style shorts and puzzle print polo shirt jumpsuit, felt made for me.
Yellow is recurrent throughout the lookbook as is her play with textural swirls, adorning pencil skirts, hot pants and short long-sleeved dresses and jackets, with exposed zips lending a sportswear feel. The tiered sergeant pepper inspired mustard maxi dress and mustard cropped trouser suit are stand-out pieces, as was the blue, red and green checked halter dress, which was picnic perfect.
The men are dashing with a sunny disposition, perfectly complimenting their female counterparts, in one-button yellow and silver suits, worn over woven t-shirts, that reminded me of primary school art classes-(weaving was my only skill); a motif that followed onto the retro inspired polo shirts, reminiscent of Prada’s menswear, and an incredible nude gown.
The beauty of Martin’s collection is all in the detail, be it an asymmetric exposed back, pins through a hemline, or a strip of light blue to break-up a stone coloured dress and though not necessarily minimal her collection is clever and progressive, and I suspect highly influenced by the Londoners she exhibits to.
Images courtesy of Martin Lamothe.
Posted by Jamila Robertson