25.02.10

London Fashion Week AW10/11 - Menswear - Aitor Throup

Aitor Throup takes us to Another Place

In a scene reminiscent of an Antony Gormley exhibition, Aitor Throup's presentation saw his AW collection of modern trousers showcased on delicate scultural mannequins. Lively yet static, these male forms were eerie in their real-ness and lent the huge space they inhabited a buzz of potential energy.

The potential was, of course, realised in Throup's creations as he took the simple trouser and experimented with its make-up. The crotch was dropped to mid thigh level, bringing the rear pockets down along with it and making the fly extra long. Underwear elements creeped into some pairs, the zip fly being replaced by a brief style slit.

Alongside his classic use of dark fabrics, more unusual textiless and textures were also on the experimental agenda with Throup creating his masculine trousers in matte black sequinned fabric and also in a satin embroidered with tiny flowers. And gravity kept on pulling down on those floating figures, with ankles extending down into the arch of the foot and zipped pockets situated down round the shins.

Posted by Sarah Barnes

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