The show started and I didn’t know what to write. A decadent kingdom setting of Persian rugs and patterned paper with tinsel was a shockingly intriguing start to what was a brave but accomplished move away from Meadham Kirchhoff’s grunge aesthetic. The oversaturation of their design niche pushed the cool London duo to produce a couture-like collection of whimsical Edwardian beauty. Intensified by the dramatic toy-kingdom music, the show opened with a shredded chiffon veil (with a royal trail) and paved the way for a severe collage of glitter, Christmas-inspired embellishment and sequin appliqué.
The distinct Meadham Kirchhoff elements were there, but subdued, in an underlining of bias-cut floor length dresses, and biker jackets in painted floral leather with juxtaposing zips. The mix of layering in angora cardigans, vintage leopard print coats and clashing patters resembled nonchalant fancy-dress and a return to childhood. Whilst use of striking colour – in shocking red, pared down pink and lilac - was first difficult to take in for the usually black-dominated duo, it ultimately provided much-needed risk-taking to LFW. The designers use of menswear footwear in bulky open-toe sandals was a natural backlash to the recent extremism of the platform heel. Accessories-wise, stacked plastic bangles and child-like tiara’s completed the theatricalness of the collection and achieved their intention to convey ‘a visual assault’. Simply breathtaking.
Photography by Emma Gibney
Posted by Modesta Dziautaite