06.06.10

Graduate Fashion Week 2010 - Day 1 - East London

Graduate Fashion Week 2010 - University of East London

There was brilliant energy at the first show of Graduate Fashion Week, and with a total of nineteen designers showcasing their blood, sweat and tears, the University of East London definitely didn’t disappoint. Trends that were prominent throughout were structured shoulders on dresses, coats and capes, draping, tucking, sheer panelling and leather.

Carly Njini took her inspiration from photography and the unpredictably of using film, and incorporated shadows, lights and prints from cut-out photographs. This took shape through her use of fabrics, which incorporated organza, jersey, and leather in navy, and black tapered trousers, sheer tube dresses and mesh cycling shorts.  Rachel Taylor took us on a trip to Egypt with her ornate jumpsuits, leotards, and dresses with striking gold detailing, rich intense greens and reds, and used black as a base to give the collection a real sophistication.  The only entire menswear collection from Ross Keenan (who has been trained by Savile Row) gave us a punk goes to work vibe, manipulating the classic pin stripe suits with one sleeve waistcoats, knee length shirts and flashes of floral detailing. The finale piece looking like something out of the Matrix (but in a good way) was a full-length leather trench complete with fur collar detail and a load of attitude. Charlotte Macke brought to the stage the bionic woman in all her glory, wrapped in body armour ready to take on the world through the use of structured details, metal trims, leather and zips, but keeping a tailored aspect to compliment the ‘urban warriors’ whilst still remaining feminine and provocative.  

The collection from Qeesra Dad dripped with sexuality with seductive burgundy, and strong earth colours, leather gloves, strong shaped woollen cape, silk print harems, killer velvet heels and digitally printed leather and fabric trunks. Warriors were something of a trend today, and it also came from my personal favourite of the entire show Bunmi Olaye who gave to us an African Queen, but not the kind of royal who sits on her thrown kissing her jewels, but a woman who dominates the entire room the minute she walks in, the kind of woman that demands attention through her powerful gaze and proud stance. This attitude was put into clothing by using giant pom-pom coats and collars, feathered masks and canes, warm African hues, strong pant suits in bright red, white and black and structured Victorian silhouettes with a contemporary and exaggerated edge.

Closing the show was Johanna Greenish with her playful, pretty and artistically driven collection. My favourite piece was a dress with a fifties silhouette in monochrome with leather detail to give it a tougher approach. The concept of the collection was easy to see, as there was a theme of folds, layers and line drawing effect that stood out as being an extension of art. The collection was playful (particularly the lampshade skirt) but also wearable and crisp. 

Backstage photography by Palida Boonyarungsrit

 

Posted by Leanne Boulton

Tags: GFW Graduate Fashion Week East London East London Graduate Collections