AW10/11 Menswear Trend – Corsetry
It is no surprise that the late Alexander McQueen initiated a trend that has now reached momentum - the male corset. Another pioneer, Miuccia Prada followed up with her unconventional take on the trend in A/W 08, incorporating metal pieces onto segmented tailoring.
For AW10/11, a literal take on the trend appeared in John Galliano’s show featuring feminine satin corsets layered over traditional tailoring for a bourgeois effect. Walter Van Beirendonck’s directional vision saw him impale models with 3D guns, whilst Giuliano Fujiwara drew focus to the midsection by combining waist-belts with tiered knitted corsets.
Another, more subtle take on the trend, were aviation influenced corsets seen at Jil Sander, where Raf Simons contradicted his minimalist aesthetic with textured puffer jackets. Lucas Ossendrijver's Lanvin collection focused on the waist to balance the predominantly loose A-line silhouette, alternating between fluid knitwear and hard equestrian leather corsets. Comme des Garcons translated the trend into contemporary life-jackets whilst Damir Doma used wide waist belts to cinch his voluminous proportions.
If Miuccia Prada's and Marc Jacobs' sensual femininity embrace in womenswear is anything to go by, next season the 50's silhouette will dominate across both genders.
Posted by Modesta Dziautaite