19.03.11

The Knitwear Interview - Mark Fast, Derek Lawlor, Cooperative Designs and Ramon Gurillo

Cooperative Design AW 11/12

Derek Lawlor AW 11/12

Mark Fast AW 11/12

Ramon Gurillo SS 11

New Generation Knitwear

Knitwear often feels like the quiet, understated area of fashion design. A much loved wardrobe staple, as opposed to a signature garment sitting dynamically in the centre of a collection. However in recent seasons, conceptual knitwear design has been making an impact on the fashion industry. The international exhibition, ‘UNRAVEL’, opened at Mode Museum in Antwerp this week, taking a retrospective look at knitwear design and celebrating it. Looking to London we can see this craft has marked the careers of a wave of young designers. So as such I ask Mark Fast, Derek Lawlor, Cooperative Designs and Ramon Gurillo, four designers defined by knitwear their thoughts.

What do you love about knitwear design?

Mark Fast: I'm in control of the dynamic qualities which can be produced by the machine. It is such a wonderful art form. It has been an evolving process. Everything I have done in my life; working with birds, acting, piano, creating beautiful creatures and characters; it has all been perfect practice to be a knitwear designer.

Cooperative Designs: Knitwear occupies a really unique position, it’s both textiles and fashion. You gain absolute control over what you are making: from the yarn, fabric structure and the final garment. We both enjoy working in 3D and combining texture, structure and graphics. Knitwear is the perfect vehicle for that.

Do you feel you represent a new wave of knitwear designers?

Derek Lawlor: There is definitely a new wave of designers who are pushing out the boundaries of knitwear. I like to believe I am doing something new, the techniques are original and through my cord work I have created my identity within knitwear design.

Ramon Gurillo: Yes, alongside designers such as Craig Lawrence, Mark Fast and Louise Goldin, we are reinventing knitwear that appeals to a newer and younger customer. It fits with a new resurgence in the London fashion scene.

Is London leading the way in conceptual knitwear design?

Ramon: London does seems to be leading a new wave of creativity. It feels different to other fashion capitals because it is always open to new ideas and provides a great platform for new labels. There are very good textile schools in the UK that are producing young knitwear designers who are breaking new ground.

Mark: I feel like things are more ripped up and shredded here. There is a sense of erosion with the garment process. The designers are very strong.

Derek: London is great for introducing and promoting new designers. Knitwear in London has become popular over the past 10 years and designers are recognised for producing collections of knitwear rather than just generic pieces which form part of collection.

Which knitwear designers or labels do you feel have been influential?

Cooperative: As graphic knitters we are inspired by the oversized graphic knitters of the ‘80s; Body Map, Missoni, Stefanel, Kenzo. The more body con new knitters are surely similarly inspired by designers like Julian MacDonald in the ‘90s.

Ramon: Dries Van Noten has always produced an very interesting range of knitwear in his collections. I also like the Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Comme Des Garcons' offer of knits, and a Spanish knitwear designer from the ‘80's called Manuel Pina who created amazing shapes and concepts.

Derek: I really admire past collections from Sonia Rykiel and John Rocha, both are recognised for there distinct knitwear. It was actually designers such as Thierry Muglar, Cappucci and Issey Miyake who inspired me to explore shape and silhouette. It was the past work of Muglar that encouraged me to create sculptural pieces and create garments which at first sight are not recognised as knitwear until up close.

Mark: For me it was the rawness and freedom of Bora Aksu. He really taught me to be free.

Which current knitwear designers stand out for you and why?

Ramon: Dries Van Noten, for his modern eclectic approach. Comme Des Garcons for its creativity and functionality. Rick Owens for his distinctive look, new concept and mood.

Derek: There are some great knitwear designers around at the moment. I really like the work of Shao Yen a recent graduate from Central St Martins.

Are technologies evolving and changing the way you create garments?

Mark: I feel there is actually a lack of technological development, as they don't make knitting machines like they used to. It causes me to be more precious with my machines and not take them for granted. When I break a needle, I freak!

Derek: Technologies are always changing - bigger and better. I also still use my domestic knitting machine which I bought in my first year of university, it still works a treat. I'm definitely sticking with the domestic machines for the time being.

Cooperative: We work with our yarn suppliers and manufacturers to make sure we are making the most of new technologies. We now have access to such fine, soft but light yarns that we can create much lighter knitwear, which many people wouldn't even recognise as being knitted. New technologies also mean we have access to super chunky yarns which give incredible volume whilst staying light and easy to wear.

Who would you like to collaborate with in your field?

Ramon: I would like to create knitwear for a designer collection such Haider Ackermann, or my favourite at the moment Alber Elbaz for Lanvin.

Mark: David Lynch, or someone with a deep understanding of film.

Cooperative: We would love to collaborate with more heritage, traditional brands.

What would you like your work to say about you in the future?

Derek: I would like my pieces to be recognised as 'timeless classics' - whether worn on the body or hanging on a wall, I’d like them to be appreciated like pieces of artwork.

Ramon: I broke boundaries and I helped to create a new concept for knitwear that is sexy and glamorous, as well sophisticated. I created luxury, timeless and beautiful designs.

Mark: Expression of my emotion.

Posted by Faye Heran

Tags: knitwear Mark Fast Derek Lawlor Cooperative Designs Ramon Gurillo Fashion156.com london Antwerp Unravel